Mates Along the Way...

Individuals travel for a variety of reasons:  change, discover new cultures & experiences, broaden perspectives, step outside of your comfort zone, see the world, and for me a considerable factor is meeting new people along the way.  I have met so many interesting, friendly, hospitable, outgoing, and likeminded travelers from all over the world, all (or most) of whom have in one way or another, contributed to and enriched my travels here.  I have to mention that the majority along the road were either German, British, or Dutch... they're everywhere and love traveling NZ!  At least if I decide to visit any of these countries, I'll be set  :)  I've been in good hands, good company, and I hope to see them again one day.  Cheers mate!

Maritime Mammals

I've had some pretty extraordinary encounters with marine life along the southern and eastern shores of the So. Island.  One town in particular was an aquatic haven and that's Kaikoura.  Not only was the setting incredible with a branch of the Southern Alps nearly reaching the ocean, but there was an abundance of sea life as well.  It's home to heaps of dusky dolphins, seals, massive albatross, fresh seafood (especially giant crayfish!), and whales.  Dolphin swimming is a major attraction here, but I opted for the whale watching instead and was not disappointed.  A total of 4 Sperm Whales were sighted and in close range!  Colossal and mighty, yet so graceful and mesmerizing.  epic.

These Boots Were Made for Walking

     

I've been told over and over again that the South Island was where the action was and what NZ was all about.  Considering how incredible the North was, I could only imagine what I was in store for.  The shift in scenery was dramatic and stunning during my ferry ride across the Cook Strait... the perfect gateway to the surreal and rugged South.  It was already living up to my expectations and to the diverse, ever changing landscape NZ is renowned for.  Case in point-- the adventures I embarked on below...

First up was the Abel Tasman National Park, one of my favorites with its turquoise waters, golden sands, and bizarre rock formations.  I did a day hike along the Coast Track beginning with a water taxi ride to Bark Bay.  From here I walk back to my accommodation-- roughly 20km of beaches, remarkable sea views, lush headlands, clear blue water, and my first encounter with the infamous NZ sandflies (they suck, literally).  

  

  

The landscape of southwest NZ has been carved out by glaciers and the best way to appreciate the size and majesty of it is up close and personal.  The Franz Josef Glacier is 12km long and one of the fastest moving glaciers with growth of as much as 2ft a day.  Its location is unique, as it descends from the Southern Alps into the greenery of a temperate rainforest, and terminates only 19 km from the Tasman Sea.  With ice axe in hand and crampons on foot, my full-day tour begins at the valley floor where I set off onto a once in a lifetime experience into the unworldly glacial terrain of blue ice tunnels and crevices.

Months of preparation and anticipation, as well as luck in scoring a reservation from a cancellation, landed me in the heart of the spectacular Fiordland National Park and Milford Sound.  The Milford Track is heralded as 'the finest walk in the world' and NZ's most famous walk.  With its popularity of approx 14,000 people completing it each year, comes strict regiments and a max allowance of 40 independent hikers permitted each day (yes, getting a ticket last minute is like winning the lotto!).

The track begins at the head of Lake Te Anau (only accessible by boat) and traverses rainforests, wetlands, a blustery alpine pass, mountain rivers, suspension bridges, and waterfall-laden valleys (including Sutherland Falls, NZ's tallest at 1900ft).  Over a course of 4 days and 3 nights in huts, I cover 72km (43 miles) and make it in one piece to the end point at Milford Sound-- I won't lie, pain and fatigue was definitely present towards the finish line, but negligible after experiencing such a surreal and phenomenal feat!  Even the ridiculous swarms of sandflies couldn't bring me down... but they tried very hard and I still have the scars from their bites to prove it.  What better way to bask in the awe-inspiring glory than a scenic cruise of the Milford Sound to soak in the remoteness and physical grandeur of the fiords once carved out by glaciers.

After a few days of rest, I made my way around the southern end of the So. Island, up the east coast, then inland for yet another incredible and favorite spot of mine.  Mt Cook is the highest of NZ's 23 mountains, standing roughly at 13,000ft.  My accommodation was nestled at the mountain base with a remarkable and unreal view of Hooker Glacier just outside my window (pic below from the deck).  What an unbeatable sight to wake to in the morning.  I went on a couple hikes here, including the 1/2 day Hooker Valley track towards Mt Cook, which crosses the river to its source to reach the Hooker Glacier terminal lake.  Visual stimulus overload.